This is the story of a quite unreal little family adventure, 110 kilometers through the northern Swedish mountains with a five year old hero, and his mom and dad. With our backpacks and tent we hiked for six days through beautiful mountain valleys free of mobile coverage and internet, along the Dag Hammarskjölds led from Nikkaluokta to Abisko, during the 2018 Fjällräven Classic trekking event.
But first, why did we do it and what is our background? We are an ordinary Swedish family living in the middle of Stockholm, enjoying the outdoors and goes quite often on little adventures. We hope that bringing the kids outside and letting them enjoy the nature from the very beginning will create a profound understanding and desire to preserve our precious environment and ultimately make the world just a little bit better for generations to come.
We have done Fjällräven Classic several times before and really enjoy the event and lovely atmosphere among all the fellow trekkers. So, we knew what to expect and we are pretty familiar hiking in the Swedish mountains. In fact, our kids have done the Classic before, 2014 and 2016 when they were just about one year old. On those adventures we carried them in a child carrier, which you can read about in Swedish here on our blog. This time our oldest son Malcolm, five-years-old, wanted to walk the entire hike together with us and that is of course quite an adventure, for all of us.
To take on such a challenge, cause a challenge it is, it requires a big chunk of humbleness. There is a lot that can happen in the mountains and we needed to be prepared for most of it and for all those situations we could not practice and prepare for, we needed to understand what kind of risks we exposed ourselves to and how to eliminate or at least decrease the likelihood or impact of risk realization. This is a bit different when you’re hiking with your family, the stakes are so much higher. For us, it comes down to attitude. A big respect for the mountains, the paths beyond the civilization, and the weather. We are tiny little fragile creatures in the hands of nature. So, do not challenge the force of the mountains. Humbleness and respect!
Looking into the wild…
It can be a challenge for anyone on this trek to avoid being cold, wet and hungry. We have learned that staying dry, warm and happy is really one of the cornerstones of a successful memorable adventure and the key for that is family team work.
Day 1 – Nikkaloukta to Kebnekaise
The clouds were hanging gray in the sky and a few raindrops made their way down, but no real rain came to our delightness. It’s always feels a bit better to start off without the full rain gear on. In fact, just after a kilometer or two, we zipped off the bottom parts of our Keb Trousers and me and Malcolm hiked in shorts, but we kept the jackets on since the wind factor was still a bit chilly. We paused roughly once an hour and quite soon it became time for lunch break. We took off our shoes and aired our feet, a good routine we have and which pays off in the end, so just as good to start early and teach Malcolm how it works.
After lunch we continued trekking through the green fields of mountain birches, making our way into the mountain valleys which starts for real at the foot mount Kebnekaise, the highest mountain in Sweden. We reached the well visited and rather large and civilized mountain cabin just before dinner time, perfect. We stamped our hiking passes, got surprised by free cinnamon buns and bought a Coca Cola for Malcolm as an extra reward after the first 19 kilometers. We stayed a bit longer than necessary, enjoyed the luxury of a shop and cafe, indoor coziness and the last internet available for the rest of the trek. After more than two hours we got our things together and continued on-wards to the suspension bridge, maybe three kilometers ahead.
We made camp by the river under the pink sky and I took some quick pictures. The evening had become quite late and now all focus was to pitch the tent and get Malcolm ready for bed and into his sleeping bag. It didn’t take long before he fell asleep, probably quite tired and full of impressions from the first day. When I looked out the tent door again the beautiful pink sky was gone and replaced by darkness, typical. This would prove to be the case throughout our hike, first focus on the family, stay dry, warm and happy. Then take pictures… The result was an amazing family adventure with lots of wonderful memories, but less good pictures. We just never got the time to stage anything or prepare for photo moments with a five year old clown who always was up to something. On the other hand, we never had a dull moment on this hike 🙂
Day 2 – Kebnekaise to Kuoperjåkka
We woke up to a fabulous day of trekking. This part, is one of my many favorites along Dag Hammarskjölds led. We continued into the valley with spectacular views, mountains reaching more than 1000 meters up from the floor of the valley, the entrance guarded by the majestic mountain Tolpagorni with its volcanic like crater on the right hand side.
After an hour or so we had our traditional second breakfast, bread and coffee, and hot chocolate for Malcolm. Just sitting down and enjoying the scenery, sipping on a second morning coffee, that’s the simple things in life. We believe, that there are memories like this that will last for a lifetime, since they are deeply connected with a cozy feeling of warmth and togetherness.
We had lunch in the middle of the valley and we hiked along the water leading the way down to the Singi cabins which we reached around four o’clock in the afternoon, maybe an hour later than expected. The trail is a bit more rocky and a little bit longer than you expect, so it was really nice to get to the checkpoint at Singi, stamp the hiking passes and refill energy. The pleasant relaxing pause didn’t last for long, unfortunately. The rain came and we decided that there was better to start walking than sitting down.
First it was just a dripple and we had pretty good speed considering the late hour of the day, which for Malcolm meant around 3 km/h. But after an hour or so the rain increased more and more in intensity, we still had about one and a half kilometers to go to our planned night camp, which in theory wouldn’t be much more than half an hour walk. However, here the family made one of our few mistakes during the entire trek. Instead of understanding that Malcolm was quite tiered and his last will and good attitude washed out at the same time the rain soaked him wet, we adults wanted to push on. We were so close… and at Kuoperjåkka there is a little hut you can take cover in and enjoy some shed from the rain.
This is not our best moments as hiking parents and we forgot our own advises, it should be fun for everyone. Instead of just pitching the tent right there, we had all the time in the world on the trail, we continued on towards the hut. The speed decreased remarkably, maybe down to a kilometer an hour and there became small candy stops every 100 meters or so. So what should have taken half an hour probably took at least an hour more than planned. My heart almost broke when Malcolm started crying loudly just a few hundred meters from the hut. We sat down, discussed and made a plan all of us together. We reached the hut and Maria and Malcolm went inside to dry up and regain some hope, while dad made dinner on the Primus gas stove outside and pitched the tent for the evening.
Yes, this was not our prime moment and it would have been easy to erase this part of the story, just showing the more sunny looking pictures and smiling family, but the truth is that the mountains are though, and this is part of our experience and leanings and memories we bring with us from the adventure.
Day 3 – Kuoperjåkka to Tjäktja pass
We woke up fully aware of the probability of a full day of rain, from morning to evening. This could be a though day and we had agreed to keep after one another and not to repeat the mistake from the day before. Dad was the one to be sent outside to cook water for breakfast and to fill our two thermoses with boiling hot water, while the rest of the family enjoyed the breakfast inside the tent. Luckily, the rain was light and intermittent. The trick to bring thermoses on the trail is something we really encourage others to do, especially if you are family hiking and the weather forecast is on the rainy and chilly side. It’s so nice to skip the kitchen during lunch time, just to be able to pour hot water into the dry food, wait a little bit and then eat. In though conditions it’s literally a life saver to get warm food as quickly as possible, not to mention the mood boost.
For a few morning hours the rain was kind of hanging in the air, but we hiked without the rain gear and made really good pace all the way to the Sälka cabins where we had an early lunch and enjoyed fresh brewed coffee and more cinnamon buns. Thanks a lot Magnus for the service, one of the wonderful cabin hosts from STF.
The plan was to walk either to the Tjäktja pass and make camp just before the pass or, if the pace and mood was good, to continue over the pass and down to the Check Point another 5 kilometers further on. Then we could make night camp somewhere down by the lakes and rivers in the beginning of the Allesvaggi.
From the Sälka cabins the trail is at first rather easy to walk and we had good pace of around 4 km/h, but after a while the trail gets pretty rocky and our pace decreased. By now the rain was coming down pretty hard and everything was really wet, even though all of us had good rain gear, with hours of heavy rain and a pretty string head wind as well. Our temper was however remarkably good and we kept going, maybe with a bit more energy pauses along the way.
Just as we reached the bottom of the pass Malcolm announced that he was done for today, it was time to put up the tent. We agreed in principle, but first we needed to find a good place for the tent, something Malcolm didn’t really understand and pointed on a grass spot just beside the trail. He even argued that if we would not listen to him, he would be sad and cry like the day before. However, we all discussed and agreed to walk a couple winter trail cross markinsg more, and found a decent spot. We put up the tent in just a few minutes, but realized in the same moment that we had put our tunnel tent sideways to the valley and the rather hard wind. This is not the location for a lousy tent setting. Rather the other way around, the Tjäktja pass is quite exposed and it could possibly be pretty hard winds and heavy rain throughout the night.
OK, maybe we were more tired than we thought. We realized that we just had to find a new spot, since there were too many rocks and a slope to just turn the tent 90 degrees in its current location. Maria and Malcolm went inside the tent, to hide away from the rain for a while, and Dad took a stroll to find a better suited camp site.
After relocating the tent, Malcolm and Maria went inside and Dad got outside duties again. We realized that once we were all on the inside, we would not go outside until it was time to leave camp the following day. I pulled out a super clever little gadget we always bring, a little light weight water bag. It takes almost no place but carries 15 liters of water. So, with this one filled, we didn’t need to run back and forth to the river and get soaking wet. We boiled water for both dinner and thermoses and then cuddled up inside our small tent.
It’s really something cozy and extraordinary laying in the tent in the middle of the mountains. Day’s from any civilization, listing to the rain and wind beating at the tent fabric, while you’re enjoying the warmth of your sleeping bag and sipping on a cup of warm tea and nibbling away on some chocolate or maybe a salami sandwich. These are also the kind of memories I hope will stay with Malcolm, that we can enjoy the mountains on their conditions, we are small and vulnerable, but with knowledge and humbleness can we enjoy the greatness of nature in all kinds of weather and seasons.
Day 4 – Tjäktja pass to Alesjaure
The rain was still coming down when we woke up, but not as hard as the day before and we had slept good during the night and were keen on getting back on the trail. We had in fact made camp half way up the Tjäktja pass the day before, so half the effort was already made. The pass is not that high to be honest, there is a long inclination building up to the actual pass which in parts are a bit steep, but not more than maybe a 100 elevation meters and it does not take more than half an hour to trek up to the summit.
At the summit there is a little top cabin with a wooden stove which someone had been so kind to lit this morning, so we enjoyed our second breakfast in the warmth of the cabin and good company of some other ten hikers or so. Fjällräven Classic is a social event, even though you may be wondering for hours in the rain with your own thoughts if you want, there is almost always a friendly soul to turn to and share stories and experiences with as well, which was exactly what we did in the top cabin.
When we continued down the other side of the pass the rain had finally ceased, and Malcolm could put on his thin liners on his hands which made all the difference in the world. On the way up the pass he really complained about his cold hands, and his real gloves was soaking wet from the day before. This could have been a real challenge if the rain had continued for several more days, which very well could have been the case. Now, we were happy it was not the case and we walked the slippery way down to the Check Point where we had lunch and was greeted with coffee and brownie. Then we continued towards the next Check Point 12 kilometers ahead. The trail is easy and follows the long and rolling hills of the Alesvaggi, which culminates in the lake Alesjaure and the rather big suspension bridge over the river at the mouth of the lake.
We made camp on one of the exposed hills just as you get up on top of the cliff where the Alesjaure cabins sits, with a great view of the trail we just had come hiking on, and looking over both the lake, river and the suspension bridge. After dinner we all made our way down to the sauna. If you have never tried a real wood stove sauna in the middle of the wilderness, you must do it. For so many reasons. Most importantly, it’s one of the few ways to actually clean yourself, and after four days of trekking and half of those in heavy rain, it’s really nice to feel the sweet pealing of your skin in a 70-80 degrees steamy room. But even better, these mountain saunas also have a cleaning room next to the sauna with a wood driven boiler, so you got warm water to blend with the ice cold mountain water and buckets to pour it all over your selves. But, a little reminder might be in place, if you use these washing institutions, please contribute and put in some more wood and refill the water after you are done.
Day 5 – Alesjaure to Keron
After a pretty slow morning, taking care of both equipment and ourselves, enjoying morning coffee in the cabin we were again ready for a day on the trail. We had pretty good weather, a bit windy, but no rain and the clouds were not as think as before. The trail is easy and the scenery beautiful, with the lake in the foreground and the mountains as a perfect backdrop. We were telling each other a lot of stories and all the sudden we left the open view of the bare mountains and the small birches appeared alongside our trail. We enjoyed our last snack pauses up on the mountains, taking in the all the scenery and almost starting to reflect already on the highlights from this years trek, like it was almost over already.
Malcolm reminded us that it was time to get going, cause by now he knew what was waiting for him at the next Check Point, Keron. All the so lovely pancakes. Such a treat to reach the kind volunteers at the Check Point and be served new made pancakes with whipped cream and jam. Malcolm could hardly believe it when the staff announced free pancakes to all five year old hikers, for as long as he wanted. Eight pancakes later he withdraw and proclaimed that he was full, but he would be back for breakfast the next morning, since we had made camp right here at the Check Point.
Day 6 – Keron to Abisko, the finish line
The last day of our 110 kilometer hike. Wow, we could hardly believe it. Had it gone so quick, and so smooth? We had good weather and the trail is really easy, so kept a good 4 km/h pace, without stressing it. As the usual routine we had second breakfast and finished of our salami and the last pieces of bread. We still had some snacks and coffee left in the backpacks, but overall we had brought a pretty good selection and amount, knowing that some stuff is possible to refill along the way in the cabins we passed.
Just after we passed the last of the many suspension bridges Malcolm tripped on a wooden footpath over a mini creek and fell head over heel into the water. He caught himself, but got quite scared and wet. Luckily, he did not hurt himself, but we realized once again what small little missteps on the mountains could have led to. Very thankful for not having any injuries, not even a blister on any of our feet, we continued the last kilometers to the finish line at Abisko Mountain Station and the awaiting Trekkers Inn, temporary built to greet all the tired and exited trekkers reaching the goal.
There is a great tradition at the end of Fjällräven Classic, all the hikers who already have reached the finish applauds and cheers on the trekkers coming in the last 50 meters or so. Coming up that little hill, peak around the corner of the house and hear all the cheering gets me so worm inside every time. You’re in heaven tripping on small little pink clouds as you make your way under the Fjällräven Classic portal marking the end of your trek.
This was the story of an amazing family adventure in the northern Swedish mountains, a wonderful experience which we hope will inspire all of you who are thinking of hiking with your kids. We hope that this adventure has shown that almost anyone, with the right preparations and attitude, can take on a family adventure such like this, and no one is too young to experience the greatness of the mountains. It might be hard and tough, it might be easy peasy. It might be rocky and you might struggle. It might be smooth and fast. It might be sunny and clear blue sky, it might be rainy and wind in your face. It might be all of it.
At the finish line, after 110 km through the mountains
We really enjoyed being part of the Fjällräven Classic 2018 and a big thanks to all those 140 volunteers who made the event possible. We are also very grateful for all the cheers and encouragement we got along the trail from all our fellow hikers. Thank you so much!
Below are some links for those of you who would like to know more about Sweden and the beautiful mountains this trek has passed through.
Thank you for sharing this experience. Loved to read also about not the best moments and smiled reading about little lifes joys like drinking hot tea and eating chocolate in the tent while there was raining.
Thank you so much, we are delighted!
What an inspiring account.
One question: did you pay full ticket price for Malcolm?
Best regards,
Annika
Hi,
Thank you so much. We are so happy that you like us and get inspired. No, we did not pay full price. Kids get a heavily reduced price which in 2018 was just 400 SEK.
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Kind Regards